OKZCC Technical Notes & Tips

PURPOSE
This bulletin contains cleaning procedures for valve lash adjusters. In many cases, cleaning valve lash adjusters can extend their service life. Mitsubishi Motors strongly suggests cleaning and inspecting lash adjusters before considering lash adjuster replacement. AFFECTED VEHICLES All models equipped with valve lash adjusters

PROCEDURE
Valve lash adjusters are precision mechanisms. Do not allow them to become contaminated by dirt or other foreign substances. Do not attempt to disassemble valve lash adjusters. Use only clean diesel fuel to clean valve lash adjusters.

1. Prepare three containers. Place enough diesel fuel into each container to cover a lash adjuster when it is standing upright.

2. Place the lash adjuster into container A and clean its outside surface, using a nylon brush if necessary.

3. While gently pushing down the internal steel ball using stiff wire (0.5 mm diameter), move the plunger through 5 to 10 strokes until it slides smoothly. This will remove dirty oil from the lash adjuster and loosen the plunger.

The steel ball spring is extremeIy weak. If the wire is pushed in with too much force, the lash adjuster will be damaged. If the plunger remains stiff or the mechanism appears to be abnormal, replace the lash adjuster.

4. Remove the lash adjuster from container A. Then gently push down the steel ball and push the plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure chamber.

5. Place the lash adjuster in container B. Then gently push down the internal steel ball using stiff wire (0.5 mm diameter). Move the plunger through 5 to 10 strokes until it slides smoothly. This will clean the lash adjuster’s pressure chamber.

6. Remove the lash adjuster from container B. Then gently push down the steel ball and push the plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure chamber.

7. Place the lash adjuster in container C. Then gently push down the internal steel ball using a stiff wire (0.5 mm). Do not use container C for cleaning. Foreign matter could enter the pressure chamber.

8. Stand the lash adjuster upright with its plunger at the top, then push the plunger downward firmly until it moves through its furthest possible stroke. Return the plunger slowly, then release the steel ball and allow the pressure chamber to fill with diesel fuel.

9. Remove the lash adjuster from container C and stand it upright with its plunger at the top. Push the plunger firmly and check that it does not move. If the lash adjuster contracts, repeat Steps 7 through 9 to fill it completely with diesel fuel. If it contracts again, replace it.

10. Stand the lash adjuster upright to prevent the diesel fuel from spilling out. Do not allow it to become contaminated by dirt or other foreign substances. Install it in the engine as soon as possible.

Let's face it, taking your car in for repair can be really intimidating.  But, there are things you can do to help your mechanic make the fix easier and less expensive.  With experience of the problem and some calm, clear communication with your  mechanic, you can save time, money and aggravation.  Here are some things to remember to help you achieve this goal.

JUST THE FACTS - When describing the problem, describe both the outside conditions (both road and weather) and your car's condition.  This would include accelerating from a stop, decelerating to a stop, negotiating a curve, passing, or steady cruising.  Also note what accessories were on in the car at the time (air conditioning, radio, etc.).  State what you observed on the instrument panel at the time (warning lights and gauges).  Have your maintenance records available.  

NOTE A PATTERN? - Note whether or not the problem is constant or intermittent.  The car's problem may be obvious (squelling brakes) or, if it happens only under certain conditions (a cold morning start), it may take more time to diagnose.  You can pay your mechanic to observe the car's intermittent problem or do it yourself.  You will need your sense of sight, smell, touch, and hearing to help you observe your car's problem.  When you have gathered enough information about your car's problem then you are ready to pay a visit to the repair shop. 

DON'T ASSUME - Instead of asking for a specific repair, describe the basic symptoms (following guidelines above).  Let your mechanic ask further questions, and suggest the solution.  If diagnostic testing is suggested, it's alright to ask questions to understand what the tests involve and how they relate to your car's problem.  Let's say your engine is running roughly so you think your car needs a tune-up.  Requesting that specific maintenance may not solve the engine problem since there are several causes of that problem.  After the tune-up, your car is still running rough and you drive away blaming the mechanic when he only did what you asked him to do!

Keep in mind that when a diagnosis is made (such as a dead battery) that fixing the symptom (replacing the dead battery) could lead to the real cause of the problem which will need additional repairs (electrical component or alternator).  Also, keep in mind that if the car is experiencing symptoms that would implicate multiple problems, your mechanic may need more time to identify the problems.

Having said this, it is important to remember that routine vehicle maintenance will noticeably cut down on the number of unscheduled "emergency/problem" visits to the repair shop.  Having regular brake inspection, filter replacement, transmission service, etc., will remove potential problems from arising between recommended service intervals.  In the long run, this will save you money.

A professional, competent and ethical auto repair shop can and will tackle and repair a vehicle even if misleading information is provided.  However, clear communication and expectations for your vehicle's repairs will save time and money.         

A Japanese MGB-
Beater

Ken Gross

To qualify as ‘modem classics; we’re choosing vehicles that are comparatIvely affordable now and that we think will Increase in value over time. These are cars that many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars that people still see that make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. We’re focusing on cars that are at least 25 years old so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual Inspections.

Tastes may vary, as may peoples’ own definitions of affordable. Our theoretical limit Is $50000 for a car in good to excellent condItion, which rules out many of the traditional exotics. This month’s selection is the Datsun Sports family.

First to Market

Nissan’s celebrating Its past and reprising 2-can with a modern version, which calls to mind an earlier Datsun effort that caught the sportscar community by surprise. Datsun’s chubby little fiberglass 1959-63 Fair Lady convertible was outdated by the time it appeared. But it's successor was right on the money. At the 1961 Tokyo Motor Show, a prototype 1500 Sports (the SPL310) hinted at things to come. Some thought Datsun had simply copied the new MGB. Both cars were under development simultaneously, but Datsun actually beat MG to market: Production 1500s debuted first at the New York Auto Show In spring of 62 while road-going “Bs" didn’t arrive until that fall.

BrItain ruled the roadster class in those days, with solid, predictable offerings. Datsun followed suit with an equally conservative approach. The 1500 had a sturdy, box-section frame with a center crossmember, double A-arms and coils in front, a live rear axle with semi-elliptic leaf springs and drum brakes all around. Its slab-sided body coincidentally resembled the MGB’S, but the Briton’s grille and deck were far more attractive than the Japanese cars fussier counterparts.

Sturdy & Stylish

Under Its square-scooped hood, Datsun supplied a sturdy 71-bhp 1500-cc four, backed by a four-speed manual. The 1500 was all through at a decorous 95 mph, so a second SU-llcensed Hitachi carburetor was soon added. More improvements followed: a 1596-cc, 95-bhp, 100-mph 1600 model (CSP311), then a five-main-bearing crankshaft, front disc brakes, an alI-synchromesh gearbox and even more refinements in the later SP311.

From the beginning, 1500s/1600s were aggressively priced and very well equipped with roll-up windows, a radio, heater and tonneau cover lncluded. The top was the usual tin-sticks-and-canvas do-lt-yourself affair, but once erected, it didn’t leak. (Thankfully, Datsun didn’t copy every British feature!) The roadsters quality was comparable to its rivals, and Americans bought ‘em
like hotcakes: When Bob Sharp won SCCA’s F-Production racing class in 1967, It firmly established Datsun as a serious sportscar maker.

As U.S. emissions laws tightened~, the 1600’s displacement increased to preserve performance. Datsun’s final offering was the speedy 2000 (SRL311), a 1982-cc, overhead-cam, 135-bhp four with a new five-speed gearbox. OfferIng 40% more power than the 1600, a heady 114-mph top speed, and priced at just $2,950, it was a terrific deal. "Road & Track" called It "...lnsigniflcantly heavier, moderately more expensive, but abundantly more powerful.” A few rare, 150-bhp, 124-mph competition-kit-equipped roadsters --- complete with a hotter cam and a pair of twin-throat Solex carbs--- were built. Modified 2000s competed handily in SCCA against the likes or Porsche 911's, AIfa T2's and Lotus Elans.

Ironically, Datsun’s hugely successful 240Z was the 1600/2000 roadster’s downfall. They were built on the same production line and Datsun needed the capacity. As both roadsters were getting a bit long in the tooth, they were dropped in 1970. We recommend the later 2000 models with bigger engines. Rust Is always a problem: check door sills, rear quarter panels and the lower edges of the fenders. The top bows were fragile, so be sure the top on your car closes tightly; replacements are hard to come by. The 2000’s one-piece rocker arms tend to wear the camshaft lobes prematurely.

Datsun’s early roadsters were rolling proof that real sportscars didn’t always come from Europe. Company Icon Mr. K could be proud of the ones in his garage. CPI (Cars of Particular Interest) values excellent 1600s from $4,500-$7,300 For 2000 models, figure on a grand more.

When vehicle manufacturers select a tire size for a vehicle, they evaluate the vehicle's gross axle weights, the anticipated use of the tire, and the tire diameter and width. Adjustments to these factors give the manufacturer a way to improve handling and appearance. This is especially true for performance tire sizes. The size selected is rarely limited to only one capability (i.e. carrying the vehicle's weight).

The tire usually needs to have additional load capacity as well. This extra capacity is important because without it all of the tire's performance would be used up just carrying the weight of the vehicle and little would be left for durability at high speeds or responsive handling. For all vehicles produced since 1968, the original tires sizes and inflation pressures (including the spare) are listed on a vehicle placard. This placard can be located on:

The driver-side door or door jamb (Ford vehicles on the rear passenger door jamb)
Glove box or console door
Fuel filler door
The engine compartment

Additionally, some manufacturers also list the original tire pressure in the vehicle's owner's manual. If a car's inflation pressure has varied from that which was recommended by the manufacturer, it's likely that the tire's wear and performance characteristics have also changed.

Under-inflation

If your vehicle's tires are under inflated by only 6 psi it could lead to tire failure. Additionally, the tire's tread life could be reduced by as much as 25%. Lower inflation pressure will allow the tire to deflect (bend) more as it rolls. This will build up internal heat, increase rolling resistance and cause a reduction in fuel economy of up to 5%. You would find a significant loss of steering precision and cornering stability. While 6 psi doesn't seem excessively low, remember, it usually represents about 20% of the tire's recommended pressure.

Over-inflation

If your tires are over inflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when running over pot holes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well causing them to ride harsher. However, higher inflation pressures usually provide an improvement in steering response and cornering stability up to a point. This is why participants who use street tires in autocrosses, track events and road races, run higher than normal inflation pressures.

Effects of Time and Temperature

Tire inflation pressures change due to time and temperature. Tires lose about 1 psi per month due to air escaping through the rubber as it stretches. If you were to check your tires only every six months, it would not be uncommon to find them under inflated by as much as 6 psi. Tire inflation pressures also fluctuate with changes in the outside air temperature. This occurs at a rate of about 1 psi for every 10°F (plus or minus). So the tires you set correctly with an 80°F ambient temperature will be under inflated by 6 psi at 20°F.

If you add the variations of time and temperature together, it is easy to understand why a tire's inflation pressure should be checked frequently. Improper inflation can cause tires to wear irregularly and can void manufacturer's warranty.

Another advantage of checking tire pressure frequently is that it allows a slow leak to be found and repaired before it permanently damages a tire. Tire pressures should be checked once a week, preferably before the vehicle has been driven. Spending about two minutes a week will help you get the optimum performance your tires can offer!

I could start this with a lot of boring stuff like "synthetic" is big molecules built up from small ones. Or, that polyalphaolefin (PAO) starts as a simple two-carbon molecule and is built up to a 10 carbon molecule.

However, I have been asked my opinion of synthetic vs. conventional oils, so I will just explain my view on this subject. My opinion does not go to the laboratory, but rather to the inside of the motor. Granted, the synthetics are more stable, flow at a lower temperature, and are less susceptible to oxidation. But I do not care for their use in older cars. These cars were built before the invention of synthetics and should remain on conventional oil and have that oil changed at regular intervals. The exception to this would be that racing motor you just built with new racing parts. Synthetics would work for these.

For new cars with all, or mostly all, aluminum motors I would use synthetics after a wear-in period, if the motor was started with conventional oil. If your motor was started with synthetic, I would definitely stay with it.

Is the benefit of synthetics worth the cost? In new cars, the answer would be yes. In older cars, you could go to a semi-synthetic and chang the oil at the regular interval.

Can you switch back and forth? Most all oil companies do not recommend mixing or switching back and forth. Synthetics are fully compatible with each other and with conventional oils. The early synthetics had high levels of ester. This did cause discoloration and thinning of the oil and in my opinion the loss of protection.

As to the question of the use of special oil filters or special disposal techniques for those who change their own oil. The answer is that you can use the same recommended oil filter and follow the same disposal procedures that you use with conventional oil.

Lastly, does synthetic oil produce horsepower? In every study or car and the dyno, the answer is yes. Less friction - less heat - produces horsepower.

There you have my opinion on this subject. If you are in a fully committed relationship with the car of your dreams, then step up and protect it, but don't overdo it. Just remember the by-product of the combustion engine is still there no matter what oil you use. So whatever you use - Change It!