OKZCC Technical Notes & Tips

See-Through Tires

Mon, 21 Apr 2008 19:57:58 -0600

These tires are airless and are scheduled to be out on the market very soon. The bad news for law enforcement is that spike strips will not work on these tires. This is what great R&D will do, and just think of the impact on existing technology: A. no more air valves... B. no more air compressors at gas stations... C. no more repair kits... D. no more flats... These are actual pictures taken in the South Carolina plant of Michelin.

(From GIZMAG) Michelin has showcased a potentially disruptive technology with significant ramifications for the future for mobility: an airless, integrated tyre and wheel combination dubbed the TWEEL (i.e. Tyre/WhEEL) . The Tweel promises performance levels beyond those possible with conventional pneumatic technology. The first commercial applications of the Tweel will be in lower-speed, lower-weight vehicles such as the iBOT mobility device and Segway's Concept Centaur. Designed by Segway-inventor Dean Kamen, the iBOT mobility device has the ability to climb stairs and navigate uneven terrain, offering mobility freedom impossible with traditional wheelchairs. Additionally, Segway's Concept Centaur, a prototype that applies self-balancing technology to a four-wheel device, has also been equipped with Tweel to increase its performance potential. Beyond these first real-world applications, Michelin has additional projects for Tweel on construction skidsteers and a variety of military vehicles. Historically Significant "Major revolutions in mobility may come along only once in a hundred years," said Terry Gettys, president of Michelin Americas Research and Development Center in Greenville, S.C. "But a new century has dawned and Tweel has proven its potential to transform mobility. Tweel enables us to reach levels of performance that quite simply aren't possible with today's conventional pneumatic technology." The most intriguing application may be Michelin's early prototype Tweel fitment for passenger cars. The mobility company released video of promising Tweel performance on an Audi A4. "The Tweel automotive application, as demonstrated on the Audi, is definitely a concept, a stretch application with strong future potential," said Gettys. "Our concentration is to enter the market with lower-speed, lower-weight Tweel applications. What we learn from our early successes will be applied to Tweel fitments for passenger cars and beyond." Benefits of the Tweel The heart of Tweel innovation is its deceptively simple looking hub and spoke design that replaces the need for air pressure while delivering performance previously only available from pneumatic tires. The flexible spokes are fused with a flexible wheel that deforms to absorb shock and rebound with ease. Without the air needed by conventional tires, Tweel still delivers pneumatic-like performance in weight-carrying capacity, ride comfort, and the ability to "envelope" road hazards. Michelin has also found that it can tune Tweel performances independently of each other, which is a significant change from conventional tires. This means that vertical stiffness (which primarily affects ride comfort) and lateral stiffness (which affects handling and cornering) can both be optimised, pushing the performance envelope in these applications and enabling new performances not possible for current inflated tires. The Tweel prototype, demonstrated on the Audi A4, is within five percent of the rolling resistance and mass levels of current pneumatic tires. That translates to within one percent of the fuel economy of the OE fitment. Additionally, Michelin has increased the lateral stiffness by a factor of five, making the prototype unusually responsive in its handling.

Breakdowns

Mon, 24 Sep 2007 22:30:08 -0600

Breakdowns happen to the best of us, even those who scrupulously adhere to their auto maintenance schedules. The best way to survive this sort of trauma is to stay calm; the best way to stay calm is to have a plan, and some basic knowledge of what caused the breakdown. And it also helps to carry a charged cell phone. Now or Later Breakdowns come in two categories: those that require us to stop immediately, usually because the vehicle is incapacitated and you have no choice. And those that present a narrow window of opportunity to quickly find a safe place to pull over. The former category may be signaled by an "idiot light." For instance, once the oil light comes on, your engine may be in serious trouble and should be shut down immediately. With gauges that record temperature or alternator functioning, you have the luxury, or agony, of a more advanced disaster warning. A good rule of thumb with both temperature and alternator is to know what's normal for the specific vehicle and what's dangerously abnormal. For instance, pick-ups on flat highways with no load easily run below the 200-degree mark, but when running up steep grades with a heavy load, the temperature will rise steadily. With the battery, or alternator, gauge, the needle may fluctuate in stop-and-go traffic or in the rain at night. In other words, when the electrical system has a full load. If you're cruising along in normal driving conditions with little load on the system and notice the needle is sinking, it's time to worry. When a breakdown is imminent, signal (by hand, if necessary) and get completely out of the flow of traffic. If the nature of your breakdown is going to cause your vehicle to drive erratically, turn on your flashers to alert other drivers. Once you're safely off the road, be sure your flashers are on. Raise your hood, even if the engine isn't the problem, since that's the universal sign for a breakdown. Also set out flares or warning triangles, if it is safe to do so, behind your vehicle. The safest place for you, especially on a busy freeway or at night on urban roadways, is not in your vehicle. Stay near—but never get between traffic and your disabled auto. Here's where pre-planning comes in handy. Call for help. That may be in the form of a friend, an auto club or your trusted mechanic. Avoid dialing 911 unless there is immediate danger to you or passing motorists. Some state freeways have call boxes, but be cautious if you've broken down at night with no call box in immediate sight. Now, for specific breakdown scenarios: Overheating An obvious sign of overheating is either the temperature warning light or a temperature gauge needle that's into the red area. Steam billowing out from underneath the hood is a pretty good clue as well. Pull over as soon as you safely can and shut off the motor. If you see or smell steam, raise the hood and check for a broken hose, leaking radiator or engine core plug. Check the engine drivebelt that operates the water pump. If you identify a major leak or broken drivebelt, don't try to drive the car. Get help. Do not ever remove the radiator cap while the engine is hot or even warm. When you've checked for possible leaks or broken belts and everything is intact, wait until the top radiator hose is no longer hot to the touch, about 30 minutes, before you check the radiator. When the engine has cooled, you can add water to the cooling system through the coolant recovery, or overflow, reservoir under the hood. You may not have to deal with the radiator at all. After you've been on the side of the road for half an hour and added water to the reservoir, you still may not be able to figure out why you've overheated. It's probably safe to restart your engine and proceed to a facility to get the vehicle checked out. Be prepared to pull over and let the engine cool if it continues to overheat. Electrical Problems With an electrical problem, the charging system warning light will come on, or you'll notice your gauge is hovering low. Pull off the road safely, but don't turn off your engine. The process of starting an engine requires a significant amount of juice, which now may not be available. The first thing to check under the hood is the fan belt—the one that drives both the alternator and the water pump. If this belt is broken, go ahead and turn off the engine. You're not going anywhere because if your vehicle isn't overheating, it soon will. If this belt is intact, then turn off everything but your engine, such as your air conditioner or heater and radio. You may not have the option of turning off your headlights or windshield wipers, but if you can safely drive without them, do. Your alternator or generator is dead, but your engine can drive off of a fully charged battery for about an hour (assuming that it has a full charge). Brake System When the red brake warning light comes on, you may still have some braking power (let's hope so!), but it is probably reduced and you will require much greater braking distance. Get off the highway, using your emergency brake if necessary. Ease the parking/emergency brake lever on, keeping your finger on the release button. When you feel the brakes start to lock up, release the button and start again. If you're in heavy traffic, turn on your flashers and/or use your horn to alert surrounding motorists that you've got a problem. There are some situations where you can get to help with a failing brake system. For instance, if the brake caliper is broken and you've leaked brake fluid, a few quick pumps of the brake pedal can get the pressure back up. But if at all possible, just stop the car and call for help. Obviously, we haven't covered all the possible causes of breakdowns, just a few of the most common. The best test for whether you should tough it out and drive to help, or give up and pull off the road, is the degree of danger that your vehicle's malfunction exposes you and other motorists to. It's always better to err on the side of safety. Copyright © autoMedia

Synthetic or Conventional Oil?

Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:04:38 -0600

I could start this with a lot of boring stuff like "synthetic" is big molecules built up from small ones. Or, that polyalphaolefin (PAO) starts as a simple two-carbon molecule and is built up to a 10 carbon molecule. However, I have been asked my opinion of synthetic vs. conventional oils, so I will just explain my view on this subject. My opinion does not go to the laboratory, but rather to the inside of the motor. Granted, the synthetics are more stable, flow at a lower temperature, and are less susceptible to oxidation. But I do not care for their use in older cars. These cars were built before the invention of synthetics and should remain on conventional oil and have that oil changed at regular intervals. The exception to this would be that racing motor you just built with new racing parts. Synthetics would work for these. For new cars with all, or mostly all, aluminum motors I would use synthetics after a wear-in period, if the motor was started with conventional oil. If your motor was started with synthetic, I would definitely stay with it. Is the benefit of synthetics worth the cost? In new cars, the answer would be yes. In older cars, you could go to a semi-synthetic and chang the oil at the regular interval. Can you switch back and forth? Most all oil companies do not recommend mixing or switching back and forth. Synthetics are fully compatible with each other and with conventional oils. The early synthetics had high levels of ester. This did cause discoloration and thinning of the oil and in my opinion the loss of protection. As to the question of the use of special oil filters or special disposal techniques for those who change their own oil. The answer is that you can use the same recommended oil filter and follow the same disposal procedures that you use with conventional oil. Lastly, does synthetic oil produce horsepower? In every study or car and the dyno, the answer is yes. Less friction - less heat - produces horsepower. There you have my opinion on this subject. If you are in a fully committed relationship with the car of your dreams, then step up and protect it, but don't overdo it. Just remember the by-product of the combustion engine is still there no matter what oil you use. So whatever you use - Change It!

Checking Tire Inflation Pressure

Tue, 10 Jul 2007 22:47:29 -0600

When vehicle manufacturers select a tire size for a vehicle, they evaluate the vehicle's gross axle weights, the anticipated use of the tire, and the tire diameter and width. Adjustments to these factors give the manufacturer a way to improve handling and appearance. This is especially true for performance tire sizes. The size selected is rarely limited to only one capability (i.e. carrying the vehicle's weight).

The tire usually needs to have additional load capacity as well. This extra capacity is important because without it all of the tire's performance would be used up just carrying the weight of the vehicle and little would be left for durability at high speeds or responsive handling. For all vehicles produced since 1968, the original tires sizes and inflation pressures (including the spare) are listed on a vehicle placard. This placard can be located on:

The driver-side door or door jamb (Ford vehicles on the rear passenger door jamb)
Glove box or console door
Fuel filler door
The engine compartment

Additionally, some manufacturers also list the original tire pressure in the vehicle's owner's manual. If a car's inflation pressure has varied from that which was recommended by the manufacturer, it's likely that the tire's wear and performance characteristics have also changed.

Under-inflation

If your vehicle's tires are under inflated by only 6 psi it could lead to tire failure. Additionally, the tire's tread life could be reduced by as much as 25%. Lower inflation pressure will allow the tire to deflect (bend) more as it rolls. This will build up internal heat, increase rolling resistance and cause a reduction in fuel economy of up to 5%. You would find a significant loss of steering precision and cornering stability. While 6 psi doesn't seem excessively low, remember, it usually represents about 20% of the tire's recommended pressure.

Over-inflation

If your tires are over inflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when running over pot holes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well causing them to ride harsher. However, higher inflation pressures usually provide an improvement in steering response and cornering stability up to a point. This is why participants who use street tires in autocrosses, track events and road races, run higher than normal inflation pressures.

Effects of Time and Temperature

Tire inflation pressures change due to time and temperature. Tires lose about 1 psi per month due to air escaping through the rubber as it stretches. If you were to check your tires only every six months, it would not be uncommon to find them under inflated by as much as 6 psi. Tire inflation pressures also fluctuate with changes in the outside air temperature. This occurs at a rate of about 1 psi for every 10°F (plus or minus). So the tires you set correctly with an 80°F ambient temperature will be under inflated by 6 psi at 20°F.

If you add the variations of time and temperature together, it is easy to understand why a tire's inflation pressure should be checked frequently. Improper inflation can cause tires to wear irregularly and can void manufacturer's warranty.

Another advantage of checking tire pressure frequently is that it allows a slow leak to be found and repaired before it permanently damages a tire. Tire pressures should be checked once a week, preferably before the vehicle has been driven. Spending about two minutes a week will help you get the optimum performance your tires can offer!

Valvoline

Tue, 10 Jul 2007 22:26:49 -0600

A Japanese MGB- Beater Ken Gross To qualify as ‘modem classics; we’re choosing vehicles that are comparatIvely affordable now and that we think will Increase in value over time. These are cars that many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars that people still see that make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. We’re focusing on cars that are at least 25 years old so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual Inspections. Tastes may vary, as may peoples’ own definitions of affordable. Our theoretical limit Is $50000 for a car in good to excellent condItion, which rules out many of the traditional exotics. This month’s selection is the Datsun Sports family. First to Market Nissan’s celebrating Its past and reprising 2-can with a modern version, which calls to mind an earlier Datsun effort that caught the sportscar community by surprise. Datsun’s chubby little fiberglass 1959-63 Fair Lady convertible was outdated by the time it appeared. But it's successor was right on the money. At the 1961 Tokyo Motor Show, a prototype 1500 Sports (the SPL310) hinted at things to come. Some thought Datsun had simply copied the new MGB. Both cars were under development simultaneously, but Datsun actually beat MG to market: Production 1500s debuted first at the New York Auto Show In spring of 62 while road-going “Bs" didn’t arrive until that fall. BrItain ruled the roadster class in those days, with solid, predictable offerings. Datsun followed suit with an equally conservative approach. The 1500 had a sturdy, box-section frame with a center crossmember, double A-arms and coils in front, a live rear axle with semi-elliptic leaf springs and drum brakes all around. Its slab-sided body coincidentally resembled the MGB’S, but the Briton’s grille and deck were far more attractive than the Japanese cars fussier counterparts. Sturdy & Stylish Under Its square-scooped hood, Datsun supplied a sturdy 71-bhp 1500-cc four, backed by a four-speed manual. The 1500 was all through at a decorous 95 mph, so a second SU-llcensed Hitachi carburetor was soon added. More improvements followed: a 1596-cc, 95-bhp, 100-mph 1600 model (CSP311), then a five-main-bearing crankshaft, front disc brakes, an alI-synchromesh gearbox and even more refinements in the later SP311. From the beginning, 1500s/1600s were aggressively priced and very well equipped with roll-up windows, a radio, heater and tonneau cover lncluded. The top was the usual tin-sticks-and-canvas do-lt-yourself affair, but once erected, it didn’t leak. (Thankfully, Datsun didn’t copy every British feature!) The roadsters quality was comparable to its rivals, and Americans bought ‘em like hotcakes: When Bob Sharp won SCCA’s F-Production racing class in 1967, It firmly established Datsun as a serious sportscar maker. As U.S. emissions laws tightened~, the 1600’s displacement increased to preserve performance. Datsun’s final offering was the speedy 2000 (SRL311), a 1982-cc, overhead-cam, 135-bhp four with a new five-speed gearbox. OfferIng 40% more power than the 1600, a heady 114-mph top speed, and priced at just $2,950, it was a terrific deal. "Road & Track" called It "...lnsigniflcantly heavier, moderately more expensive, but abundantly more powerful.” A few rare, 150-bhp, 124-mph competition-kit-equipped roadsters --- complete with a hotter cam and a pair of twin-throat Solex carbs--- were built. Modified 2000s competed handily in SCCA against the likes or Porsche 911's, AIfa T2's and Lotus Elans. Ironically, Datsun’s hugely successful 240Z was the 1600/2000 roadster’s downfall. They were built on the same production line and Datsun needed the capacity. As both roadsters were getting a bit long in the tooth, they were dropped in 1970. We recommend the later 2000 models with bigger engines. Rust Is always a problem: check door sills, rear quarter panels and the lower edges of the fenders. The top bows were fragile, so be sure the top on your car closes tightly; replacements are hard to come by. The 2000’s one-piece rocker arms tend to wear the camshaft lobes prematurely. Datsun’s early roadsters were rolling proof that real sportscars didn’t always come from Europe. Company Icon Mr. K could be proud of the ones in his garage. CPI (Cars of Particular Interest) values excellent 1600s from $4,500-$7,300 For 2000 models, figure on a grand more.

How to Help Your Mechanic Help You

Tue, 10 Jul 2007 22:25:36 -0600

Let's face it, taking your car in for repair can be really intimidating. But, there are things you can do to help your mechanic make the fix easier and less expensive. With experience of the problem and some calm, clear communication with your mechanic, you can save time, money and aggravation. Here are some things to remember to help you achieve this goal.

JUST THE FACTS - When describing the problem, describe both the outside conditions (both road and weather) and your car's condition. This would include accelerating from a stop, decelerating to a stop, negotiating a curve, passing, or steady cruising. Also note what accessories were on in the car at the time (air conditioning, radio, etc.). State what you observed on the instrument panel at the time (warning lights and gauges). Have your maintenance records available.

NOTE A PATTERN? - Note whether or not the problem is constant or intermittent. The car's problem may be obvious (squelling brakes) or, if it happens only under certain conditions (a cold morning start), it may take more time to diagnose. You can pay your mechanic to observe the car's intermittent problem or do it yourself. You will need your sense of sight, smell, touch, and hearing to help you observe your car's problem. When you have gathered enough information about your car's problem then you are ready to pay a visit to the repair shop.

DON'T ASSUME - Instead of asking for a specific repair, describe the basic symptoms (following guidelines above). Let your mechanic ask further questions, and suggest the solution. If diagnostic testing is suggested, it's alright to ask questions to understand what the tests involve and how they relate to your car's problem. Let's say your engine is running roughly so you think your car needs a tune-up. Requesting that specific maintenance may not solve the engine problem since there are several causes of that problem. After the tune-up, your car is still running rough and you drive away blaming the mechanic when he only did what you asked him to do!

Keep in mind that when a diagnosis is made (such as a dead battery) that fixing the symptom (replacing the dead battery) could lead to the real cause of the problem which will need additional repairs (electrical component or alternator). Also, keep in mind that if the car is experiencing symptoms that would implicate multiple problems, your mechanic may need more time to identify the problems.

Having said this, it is important to remember that routine vehicle maintenance will noticeably cut down on the number of unscheduled "emergency/problem" visits to the repair shop. Having regular brake inspection, filter replacement, transmission service, etc., will remove potential problems from arising between recommended service intervals. In the long run, this will save you money.

A professional, competent and ethical auto repair shop can and will tackle and repair a vehicle even if misleading information is provided. However, clear communication and expectations for your vehicle's repairs will save time and money.

Valve Lash Adjuster Cleaning

Tue, 03 Jul 2007 02:41:36 -0600

PURPOSE
This bulletin contains cleaning procedures for valve lash adjusters. In many cases, cleaning valve lash adjusters can extend their service life. Mitsubishi Motors strongly suggests cleaning and inspecting lash adjusters before considering lash adjuster replacement. AFFECTED VEHICLES All models equipped with valve lash adjusters

PROCEDURE
Valve lash adjusters are precision mechanisms. Do not allow them to become contaminated by dirt or other foreign substances. Do not attempt to disassemble valve lash adjusters. Use only clean diesel fuel to clean valve lash adjusters.

1. Prepare three containers. Place enough diesel fuel into each container to cover a lash adjuster when it is standing upright.

Container A will be used to clean the outside of the lash adjuster.

Container B will be used to clean the inside of the lash adjuster.

After cleaning the adjuster, use Container C to fill it with clean diesel fuel.

2. Place the lash adjuster into container A and clean its outside surface, using a nylon brush if necessary.

3. While gently pushing down the internal steel ball using stiff wire (0.5 mm diameter), move the plunger through 5 to 10 strokes until it slides smoothly. This will remove dirty oil from the lash adjuster and loosen the plunger.

The steel ball spring is extremeIy weak. If the wire is pushed in with too much force, the lash adjuster will be damaged. If the plunger remains stiff or the mechanism appears to be abnormal, replace the lash adjuster.

4. Remove the lash adjuster from container A. Then gently push down the steel ball and push the plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure chamber.

5. Place the lash adjuster in container B. Then gently push down the internal steel ball using stiff wire (0.5 mm diameter). Move the plunger through 5 to 10 strokes until it slides smoothly. This will clean the lash adjuster’s pressure chamber.

6. Remove the lash adjuster from container B. Then gently push down the steel ball and push the plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure chamber.

7. Place the lash adjuster in container C. Then gently push down the internal steel ball using a stiff wire (0.5 mm). Do not use container C for cleaning. Foreign matter could enter the pressure chamber.

8. Stand the lash adjuster upright with its plunger at the top, then push the plunger downward firmly until it moves through its furthest possible stroke. Return the plunger slowly, then release the steel ball and allow the pressure chamber to fill with diesel fuel.

9. Remove the lash adjuster from container C and stand it upright with its plunger at the top. Push the plunger firmly and check that it does not move. If the lash adjuster contracts, repeat Steps 7 through 9 to fill it completely with diesel fuel. If it contracts again, replace it.

10. Stand the lash adjuster upright to prevent the diesel fuel from spilling out. Do not allow it to become contaminated by dirt or other foreign substances. Install it in the engine as soon as possible.